Sunday, July 15, 2012

#8- Great Expectations...


About to embark on a major hike in July. On the East Coast. During a heat wave. 

            As many of you probably know, the basis for Bree & I’s epic adventure has been almost entirely built on hiking a section of the Appalachian Trail.  We started out with wanting to go somewhere where we could go be out in nature for a solid chunk of time, reconnect and reassess life a bit- and from there it grew to let’s take our time and cruise the country, let’s visit so and so, let’s explore some National Parks- but at the core of all this was the fact that our beacon was always the Appalachian.  With this in mind, we bought all sorts of new lightweight gear, stocked up on everything from a new tent, packs, sleeping bags, stove, etc. – and departed with high hopes for what the trail had to bring.

Hiking away 
On July 3rd we drove from Wilmington, NC to Ashby Gap, VA where we were to start our 5 day trek hiking to Harpers Ferry, WV.  Accompanying us was one of my best friends Amanda, and in two days time her husband Chris and their feline companion Roxy, would also join us.  The first day of hiking was awesome.  I wont say easy- because I don’t think it’s ever easy to be hiking in the midst of a heat wave with 40 lbs. on your back- but it was cooler than any of us had anticipated, so that was a huge plus.  The trail at this point wasn’t too demanding, a few hills here and there, but flat for the most part, and super pretty.  Very lush, beautiful green forest.  We hiked for 4-4.5 miles, and came upon a perfect flat area for us to set-up camp for the night.  After we set-up, a sporadic rainstorm began to hit (one thing about east coast weather that I have a hard time getting used to is how quickly the weather changes), so we had to retreat to our tent for a pow-wow while it passed.  After it did, we got out and by the light of our headlamps and a plethora of lightning bugs, made a delicious meal of cherry tomatoes from Amandas garden & squash, mixed with some yummy mushroom couscous.  At this point, with a sweet contraption Bree made to hang our packs (thanks for showing Chris!), and our food properly strung up and hung from a tree, we retreated to the tent to go to sleepy time.

Sweet camping spot

            The next day, the 4th of July, we ate, packed up, filled our waters at a nearby spring, and began what is considered by some, one of the hardest parts of the entire Appalachian Trail, the “Roller Coaster” (named as such because of all the inclines and declines).  To get to our ultimate destination for the day, Buzzard Hill (and where the following morning Chris & Roxy would be joining us), would be around 6.5 miles.  The weather was a bit warmer, as well as more humid then it had been the previous day.  Pretty much right from the get-go was an intense mountain we had to climb (1 of 3 overall for the day), that definitely gave one that lovely burning sensation in the thighs.  But still, we were thankful that we were hiking in the shade, had plenty of fresh water, as well as each other to share this experience with.  At about 4.5 miles in, we come across a lovely area with a creek to put our feet in, a place to hang my hammock, and just relax and re-fuel for a couple hours.

A premonition perhaps

            This is when sh** got real.  On a steady incline after leaving our rest area, I starting feeling light-headed and slightly dizzy.  Looking back, this would have been the best time to stop and sit for a bit of time. But…figuring it was just from being out in the heat/humidity and sweating our booties off all day, plus the exertion of climbing major hills with weight on our backs, (which is what it was from, but apparently it was about to wreak more havoc on my body than I anticipated), I stopped a bit to catch my breath and take some gulps of water. After a few times of doing this, then continuing on, a headache starting kicking in as well. Dun dun dunnnn. Not a good sign. Going a little further and meeting up with Amanda (who had been hike-kicking our ass all day long - good job Amanda!), I told her I felt weird and needed to rest. Sitting down with my head between my legs, I started to feel nauseous- and proceeded to vomit “like someone had opened my mouth and turned on a fire hose.” Really not good. I had clearly drank enough water- but my inner thermostat just wasn’t keeping up with the humidity to keep me cool= heat exhaustion. Nothing has ever floored me so quickly. Between the frustration of the situation, plus feeling like I didn’t have the energy to stand, I started feeling a bit scared. How the heck was I going to get off this mountain? Breelyn & Amanda at this point were fanning me to help keep me cool, while I was laid out on the side of the trail on my pad. Luckily the place where this was all happening was .5 miles from where the trail intersects a road, and Amanda’s Mom lived about a half hour away…so Amanda called her to come scoop us up and in the meantime hiked my pack down the trail, while Breelyn fanned me and fed me grapes (just kidding…about the grapes). When Amanda returned, they took turns helping to support me while making our way back down the trail. So basically, all in all, what started out as a plan to hike the Appalachian for 2 weeks, then 5 days, ended up being more like 24 hours. Talk about a trail fail. 


My guardian angel- take 2
Major lesson of all this: in life, especially in travel, it’s good not to have too many expectations attached to things, that way when the course changes, or things don’t go how you envisioned, you can roll with the punches without feeling completely let down. Also, don’t plan a major hike on the east coast in July (major words of wisdom). In this situation, frustration & momentary fear aside, as well as the idea we had concocted for ourselves of our time on the AT, I have to say the course changing to us hanging out at Deb’s comfortable, air-conditioned house, playing ping-pong, gardening, bbqing, playing with sparklers, etc. - ended up being a really good time. Sure beat the hell out of being laid out super sick on the side of the trail. Just sayin’. 


Sparkler fun!

Monday, July 2, 2012

#7 - A Walk In The Park...




So here we are, about to set foot on the Appalachian trail (AT) – one of the foundation ideas for this trip and something that we have anticipated for almost 2 years.   I wanted to write a pre-hike blog in comparison to a later to come post-hike blog because I’m realizing how much I have romanticized the actuality of the trek – not only the pack-in camping, but backpacking on the East coast in general.  I don’t think we had a full grasp on the difference in weather between the west coast and the east coast.  I definitely don’t remember reading much about it being hot as sh*t with sauna like humidity causing you to drip with sweat from literally every part of your body, or the likelihood of rain and thunderstorms on a regular basis.  

Shannon and Amanda heading into the store with
daunting thunderstorm moving in overhead 
When the idea of this trip was first formulating it originated with thoughts of a long stretch of backpacking (we were originally thinking about 2 weeks on the AT), and then the length of time traveling around to visit friends and family and several National Parks sort of fell in line with that.  Now that we are about to actually do this, and now that we have fully experienced what this east coast weather is all about (hot and humid, oh ya … and the bugs!), we are taking this on as more of a personal challenge.  Fortunately, we have narrowed our time on the trail down to 5 days, and we will be sharing the glorious experience with our friends Chris and Amanda, and their dog Roxy!  So, tomorrow morning at 5:30am three extraordinary women (Shannon, Amanda and I) will pack up our car and drive about 6 ½ hours to Ashby Gap, Virginia, where we will strap on our backpacks (about 40lbs each) and head out into the wilderness – RAARRRRRR!!!  

Our provisions 
We will hike and set up camp Tuesday and Wednesday, and then Thursday morning Amanda’s husband and their canine companion will meet us on the trail where we will all continue on together until Sunday afternoon.  Despite the record breaking heat, the 60% chance of thunderstorms on Wednesday and Thursday with humidity levels at 74%, and the numerous bugs we will encounter (ticks being my least favorite bug on the planet), we are doing this!  I’m really not trying to make it sound horrible - I will say that there is still part of me that is excited about taking it on … or we’re just plain crazy, or stupid, or we’ll be off the trail in a few hours, or we’re just stupid-crazy-bad ass … Wish us luck!  HERE WE GO!!


Friday, June 29, 2012

#6- Movin' on Up- To The East Side!


Hangin' with the homies! 

        Our journey continues where it last left off - leaving Santa Fe after a lovely visit with Acazia & Eric (thanks guys!).  Now it was time to hit the road for a long stretch of driving that would take us over the “land bridge” from the West to East side of the country.  First stop of which would be Amarillo, Texas- where we decided to stop at the Big Texan, famous for it’s 72 oz. steak.  If you finish it, you don’t pay- at least not monetarily ;) We didn’t actually attempt this feat, for one, that’s a whole lot of meat, and two, it would take me all day (I’m a relatively slow eater).  But, having a steak in Texas was our “treasure hunt” item for the state (we have one for every state we go through), so we split the lunch size steak special, and checked that off our list.  
That's a whole lotta beef
           
Back to the road!  For whatever reason, we hadn’t considered making Oklahoma City one of our stops…but after a few hours of driving and the proximity of it to where we were, we decided to check it out.  So glad we did!  Not only was the College Softball World Series going on, it was also home to the Softball Hall Of Fame!  To some, this might not be all that exciting, but being that softball/baseball are the first true loves of my life (go figure ;) ) I was pumped!  It was extra awesome that we were able to actually go out onto the softball fields where the World Series was being held and lay in the grass, do cartwheels, etc.  Thanks to the guy at the gate who let us in before game time!

Wessbiiannns!!
From there, we continued on to the Petit Jean State Park in Arkansas, which is a super dense, super green forest. Great moment #3,219,090 of our journey- we were laying in our tent (the first night of our whole trip it was warm enough that we could sleep without our rainfly on!), and swirling all above us was flashes of fireflies lighting up the sky!  So neat!!  We both just laid there watching them all around us until we fell asleep…until around 3 am or so when we both woke up to a thunder/lightning storm erupting, and the slow pitter-patter of rain.  Uh-oh!  We jumped up and threw our rainfly back on just in time before the torrential downpour/hail storm hit!  Crazy weather.  Note to our readers: it gets super, suuuuuppeeerrr humid out the day after a rainstorm.  The reality of which slapped us in our faces while on a sweat-drenching hike the next day to which we both sucked our water dry halfway through- not a good thing.  We have coined this hike the “Hike From Hell.”  The next evening when another big storm starting hitting with raindrops the size of quarters, we grabbed our gear and decided it was time to head to Memphis, Tennessee!!

Drinking sweet-tea for the first time!
Pulling into the city where Rock N’ Roll was invented, I really feel like they could have used better pictures of Elvis on the billboards.  Instead of sweaty, bloated wasted Elvis, why didn’t they use smokin’ hot younger days Elvis?  Anyhoo- our first stop was to Sun Studio, where the likes of Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, and of course Elvis, got their start.  We opted to do the tour, which in addition to the front room, takes you upstairs to a really neat museum, and down to the recording studio where a whole lot of music magic has happened.  You know the saying, “if this room could talk,” well what’s cool about visiting a famous recording studio is that it can talk, by means of music.  We got to listen to some of the original recordings done in that very room- ‘Walk The Line,” “Blue Suede Shoes”, “Whole Lotta Shakin’”, etc. – standing where the musicians stood as they sang. It was a cool feeling.
            On a less lighter note, but also educational- we then headed to the Civil Rights Museum. It’s located at the original site of the Lorraine Hotel (where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated). They literally built the museum into most of the hotel, leaving MLK’s room exactly as it was the day he was shot. Walking through the museum, it was pretty gut wrenching to see the pictures and read the stories of our nation’s history of absolute bigotry and oppression that we somehow allowed to happen to African-Americans. Pretty awful what actions human beings are not only capable of doing, but justifying as well. I can only imagine how horrible the day MLK Jr. was assassinated was, to so many people he brought hope to.
           
Sun Studio!
           On to Nashville, Tennessee! This city, the birthplace of Country Music, is definitely going on the top 5 list of awesome cities in the US! Bree & I had a great time roaming the streets here- perfect balmy southern evening, live music coming out of every open doorway, good food and cold beers. We spent much of our evening at a bar called “Whiskey Bent,” listening to a great cover band and taking in the southern culture. We hope to come back here again one day.

Kayaking the N.Cumberland River, KY!
After these few days in the city, we were ready to get back in our tent. While it wasn’t in the plans to cruise up to Kentucky from Tennessee, we had a recommendation for a great place to camp called Sheltowee Trace Outfitters that we decided to check out. Unfortunately, we got there after dark, so after a bit of time roaming around in the super creepy, dark woods to find a backcountry site, we decided to spend the first night on the front lawn. But the 2 nights following we had a great site, and enjoyed some kayaking (in what we were told would be beautiful, swimmable waters, that turned out to be super brown & muddy. Ahh well).  Coolest thing about our couple of days here was the magnificent lightning bug show every night. There was a grassy meadow, with tall trees surrounding it on all sides, and once evening hit the whole canopy seemed to sparkle with lots and lots of fireflies. I don’t know if maybe we’re just easily entertained, but this was an immense source of sensory pleasure. Another big thing about Kentucky that really stood out was just how green it was. All over, up and down, left to right- GREEN! Very pretty. Glad we stopped by.

Petit Jean State Park, Arkansas

Thursday, June 14, 2012

#5- Ode To My Hammock




Zion National Park

          When Bree & I first decided to make this fantastic voyage of ours happen, first I fist-pumped thennn I took to making lists of all sorts. What we needed to do to execute our glorious plan, gear to get, money to save, where to explore, etc. Then came what was half the fun of all of it, going to the “candy store” (REI), and being able to buy all sorts of goodies- guilt-free! Everything from a tent to sleeping bags, to camelbaks and headlamps, we equipped ourselves like it was Christmas and REI was our personal Santa Claus (only a bit more expensive).

Kentucky

 Now that we’ve been on the road for 1+ months, and had a chance to really break in and get a feel for our gear, I’ve decided one of my favorite purchases by far is my hammock. It’s super compact, lightweight and can hold both of us. It has straps that make it possible to set it up with trees that are different widths apart, and has provided me with some of my best afternoon reading & napping spots. I find few things to be as glorious as a perfect Spring/Summer day with a slight breeze blowing, to be able to sway in my hammock and look up at the trees & sky. 

Reading...

Zzzzzz....
Crashed out!





Thursday, June 7, 2012

#4 - Movin' along...



Hello peoples!!  It has been awhile, and since our last blog we have set foot in the states of Colorado, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas,Tennessee and Kentucky!!  Yee-haw!!  First things first, we send out big happy thanks to all of those friends and family members who we’ve stayed with and shared company – muchos gracias!!

Shannon looking out on Highway 12 Scenic Byway...
So, let’s see, where did we leave off? … oh yes, from Bryce Canyon we spent three nights next to a lake in the Petrified Forest State Park, on the edge of Escalante, Utah.  From there we spent our days exploring the area and hiking out to find petrified wood and slot canyons.  We discovered and amazing coffee house/café called Kiva Koffeehouse, built right into the side of a sandstone cliff.  We drove several times on the astounding highway 12 Scenic Byway.  

Fried green tomaters!
We enjoyed a glass of chardonnay and fried green tomatoes during sunset at the Burr Trail Café, and spent several nights at the end of a dock, watching the sky turn from pink to backlit blue, silhouetted by trees, and the lake turn to glass.


From there we headed towards Moab and Arch’s National Park where we were lucky enough to spend several days at an amazing house, all to ourselves, 35 miles from anything.  From our tent o a beautiful wall-to-wall windowed house with a king size bed, washer and dryer, hot tub and a lap pool to boot – we were happy campers!  With perfectly balmy evenings we would walk onto the nearby ‘slick rock’ and watch the sky change.  Then later that night, while sitting in the hot tub, with the house lights turned off and nothing but undeveloped land for miles, the sky was the blackest we’ve seen it and the stars appeared as if each one had multiplied several times and someone turned the dimmer switch up.  It was amazing!  We even had the luxury of making popcorn and snuggling up on a big comfy couch to watch a movie – it happened to be Thelma & Louis!

Our sweet get-away house in Moab!!
Corona Arch - notice the rope swingers at the top!
On one of our days here we ventured into Arch’s National Park and hiked a fun trail with ladders and foot holds to the magnificent ‘Corona Arch’.  We happened to hike out on a day that a few brave souls looking for an adrenalin rush decided to set up a huge rope swing off the top of it – it looked super fun, but I don’t think Shannon or I would have the huevos to actually run and jump off of the top … but it was fun to watch!

From what we coined our “sweepstakes get-away house” in Moab, we headed East into Colorado.  We have both acknowledged to each other how much more beautiful Utah was – it really was so pretty, in an amazing geological way – more so than I think either of us had anticipated.  But all of that to say, there was something refreshingly beautiful about the green that we began to encounter the further we got into Colorado.  We had a great time visiting with friends and family and exploring the areas of Boulder, Fort Collins and Denver.  During that time we ventured into Rockies National Park and went for a beautiful hike through a green meadow, a lush forest of aspen trees, and up to Cub Lake with a huge backdrop of the Rocky Mountains.  We’ve never encountered so much wildlife on a single hike – we saw bunnies, ducks (little fluffy babies too), prairie dogs, marmots, a snake, very brave and persistent chipmunks (and lots of them!), male and female elk, and a coyote!

Hike to Cub Lake
Cub Lake, Rocky Mountain National Park
New Belgium brew!
We also made a stop for a tour of the New Belgium Brewery.  Not only do they make great beer but the story of how they started and the kind of company that they are is awesome!  Employee owned, wind and solar powered, 100% of the sales made in the tasting room go to local non-profits, and if you’ve worked there for five years you get an all expense paid trip to Belgium!!  The tour was really cool and we have a new appreciation for Fat Tire and all the other great brews that they make – two thumbs up New Belgium!!  Did you know that the oldest found recipe was for beer?

Before we headed into New Mexico we took a long drive to the southwest corner of Colorado to camp at Mesa Verde National Park and check out the ancient Pueblo cliff dwellings – pretty cool and honestly a little crazy.  Some of these dwellings were literally in the cracks of the side of a cliff, and we couldn’t figure out how the people would even get to some of them.  They are the largest found cliff dwellings and date back to 600 A.D.  

Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde (the largest cliff dwelling)
The day that we arrived and set up camp was nice and pretty.  The second day however, while we were touring the cliff dwellings, progressively became smokier and dustier with a nearby forest fire and gusty winds up to 40mph!  By the time we were heading back to camp we were debating leaving that night for New Mexico instead of waiting until the morning.  With the site of our tent practically blowing away and the crunch of dust in our mouths, our decision was made, and in a mad windblown, dust bowl frenzy we backed up the car and headed for Santa Fe!!  

Sunday, May 13, 2012

#3 - Geological Wonderland!





Sunglasses make a great filter- Zion Canyon

Zion – WOW!!! 

Sedona was beautiful, but it is clear as the days here why Zion has been made a National Park – it is breathtakingly beautiful in every direction you turn; and everything is so huge, yet peaceful, that it is quite humbling.  I think most people here feel it – there is a sort of calmness about everyone – you see a lot of quiet gazing and contentment with just being in this greatness.  It’s the calmness I know a few people get while staring at the ocean.  As my dad says, “It’s a good reminder to be in the presence of something that is so much bigger than you” … humbling.

View from our campsite in Zion
Besides all of that J  This place is AAA-MAZING!!!  Not only is it gorgeous, but they make being here so convenient and fun – all the while without feeling like you’re at an amusement park.  There is a free shuttle that leaves from our campsite every few minutes that drops you off at several trailheads, the museum, the lodge, etc.  There’s an outdoor amphitheater where they do different “ranger talks” at night – Shannon and I stumbled across one about bats on one of our evening strolls.  We’ve been taking long walks every night around dusk to check out everyone’s camp set-ups, then walking down to the RV ares to check out those.  It’s perfect out at that time of night – actually, the weather couldn’t be better here … besides the crazy wind that hits every night around midnight and whips against our tent until about 7 in the morning.  We’ve woken up every morning shocked that our rainfly hasn’t been whisked away during the night.

On the look-out for Big Horned Sheep! 
But back to how amazing it is here!  We have been doing some awesome hikes, and everything is just so pretty, it’s hard to not be in constant awe.  Yesterday we rented “dry suits” to hike through the icy cold water of the ‘Narrows’ – so much fun!!  There were some brave souls who hiked it without a wet or dry suit, but their poor legs were bright pink from the cold waters of the Virgin River, and we were thankful to be nice and dry as we hiked our way through the water (sometimes chest deep) up the narrow canyon.  We had walking sticks for balance, and the most amazing shoes for clamoring through riverbeds.  It took us about 6 hours and by the time we were done we felt like our legs had 10lb weights in them – but it was super fun and unbelievably pretty!!! 

2 Chix about to take on the Narrows

Bouldering fun!
We were all geared up and pumped to take on the ‘Angel’s Landing’ hike – a strenuous and challenging trail that rises 1,488 in 2.5 miles and ends on a narrow path with shear drop offs on either side.  With amazing views and a good challenge we headed up the hill, but after my camel pack started leaking as well as Shannon’s draining out completely (mind you we have NEVER had any problems with our camel packs), we took it as an omen and decided that maybe something was trying to tell us that we were not supposed to do that hike … at least not this trip.   So, we will put that on the list for next time, because we have decided that we are definitely coming back to Zion – it is way too amazing to only visit once.
Shannon dwarfed by the canyon walls

From Zion we  headed to Escalante, passing through Bryce Canyon for a hike through the otherworldly ‘hoodoos’.  I will say that both Shannon and I have been blown away by all the different land formations in Utah – it’s pretty amazing here!  From there we arrived at our current campsite in the Petrified Forest, were we thoroughly enjoyed a much needed shower after 5 days!!!  Yeowza!!!  - we have been taking “hobo showers” with little wipies, but nothing beats actual running water … and soap.  There is a lake here and we have enjoyed looking at the stars out on the dock every night.  Also, there is no nightly howling wind, so we have actually been getting full nights of sleep – aaahhhhhh.   We are in an awesome little coffee shop/café right now called Kiva Koffeehouse that is built right into the cliff, overlooking the sandstone canyon of Escalante – pretty awesome!  We are heading out to hike some slot canyons today and will be heading towards Moab and Canyonlands tomorrow.  We are happy clams!  Thinking of you all and wishing you well – happy mother’s day to all the moms in our lives!

The hoodoos of Bryce Canyon
Shannon here-

Two things of importance Bree left out about Zion-
      1.  I taught her how to play Chess!  I have to say, just after 2 games I am impressed with her strategizing skills! And now I have someone I can play with…yay!
2.  Zion has very aggressive, persistent spiders.  Or I guess I should more accurately just say “spider,” singular.  But man, that thing was big, and really wanted in our tent. 

Ch-Chec-Checkmate!